I noticed today that the Tasti D-Lite across from my office went out of business.
When I first moved to New York more than five years ago, I was all about Tasti D. I would drag Mike whenever we passed one (despite his assessment that it "tastes like air") and sometimes spend my lunch hour people-watching with a cup of the nutrition-void frozen treat.
Then came a slew of exposés outing Tasti D-Lite as deceptively unhealthy. I consequently pledged loyalty to the newly-arrived Pinkberry, which became a weekend habit when I found myself in SoHo.
When I discovered that even Pinkberry was unnatural, I settled on a neighborhood spot that cultures their own yogurt. No frills, no mysteries, no unpronounceable ingredients.
I can't help but feel that the closing of this Tasti D is a metaphor for my own changed taste and priorities.
And maybe not just mine, but all of New York.
Soon, I imagine, all Americans will be voting with their cones and choosing natural over chemical.
... Or maybe this particular location just had a ton of cockroaches and rat crap behind the counter.
At any rate, RIP Tasti D-Lite.
I have a thing for "flavor friends". It's a phrase I like to think I invented, but the concept is common: some ingredients just play really nicely with each other.
From the classics (porkchops/applesauce) to the contemporary (miso/black cod), from the lowbrow (fried chicken/waffles) to the sophisticated (gorgonzola/pear)-- there are combinations that just work.
As I set out to find a second recipe to utilize the remaining leek, it occurred to me that leeks and white wine are total BFFs. I can posit an amateur theory: I think it has to do with the very delicate flavor of the leek. Although it's related to onion and garlic, the leek is like their sensitive little brother-- unpopular, quiet, and nowhere near as strong. To that end, I'm guessing that leeks don't really stand on their own as a side dish, and, as part of a sauce or soup, require a mild base; the perfect job for Best Friend white wine, which cooks down to create a light and flavorful sauce that supports -- not overpowers -- the sissy, little leek.
Tilapia With Leeks and Corn
Ingredients
2 Tb whole mustard seeds (or 2 Tb dijon mutard)
1 Tb chopped fresh thyme or 2 tsp dried
1 Tsp salt
2 Large tilapia fillets
2 Tb cup olive oil
1/3 cup sliced leeks, white and pale green parts only
1/2 cup fresh corn kernels
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 Tb fresh lime juice
3 Tb butter
Directions
Preheat oven to 350
Mix first 3 ingredients in small bowl; rub into fish
Heat oil in a large, oven-proof skillet over medium heat
Add fish fillets and cook until bottoms are brown, about 3 minutes. Set fish aside on a plate.
Heat leeks, corn and wine in the skillet and bring to boil, scraping up any browned bits
Place fish fillets, browned side down, atop vegetables in skillet, and transfer to oven
Bake until fish is cooked through, about 10 minutes. Transfer fish to plates.
Combine all vegetables and liquid in skillet. Add lime juice, then add butter and whisk over low heat until melted. Season with salt and pepper.
Spoon vegetables with sauce over fish and serve.
***
My only change to the recipe was using dijon mustard in place of mustard seeds, which I indicated above. Not only did I not have the seeds, but I thought that slathering the fillets in the mustard would make for a better marinade.
I served the fish with a side of simple roasted potatoes with diced chives. I tossed them together with some olive oil, salt and pepper, spread it all on a tray in a single layer, and broiled in my toaster for about 35-40 minutes.
Verdict: Success. Delicious in a down-home, comfort-food sort of way. The flavors were well-balanced and I liked the crunchy leeks and corn in contrast with the tender fish. While it didn't knock my socks off, I could see this served at the finest restaurant of some small town in the middle of America. Some place where cute, old folks go to celebrate their anniversary. This dish could sit squarely on the menu there, right above the porkchops and applesauce.
